Worse, if the user has a tall spacer stack above the stem, there may be no support at all inside of the stem clamp. And, critically, even if the expander is in the right spot inside of the stem, it provides no support of the steering tube below the stem.
That may be enough, and for most riders it probably is, but I insist on a bigger margin of safety for a really big rider; I want to reinforce a long way down inside of the headset, even if the rider uses a bunch of spacers below or above his stem, or both.
Long ago, we had True Temper make special carbon forks called Alpha Q Z-Pro for us for tall bikes; they had mm-long double-thickness steering tubes. When True Temper quit making carbon fiber bike equipment, Ben Serotta, who had bought the Reynolds Composites factory, made carbon forks for us with mm steering tubes. Both of these steerers have the same wall thickness at the top as all ENVE forks and come with a standard expander plug.
The Alpha-Q insert was four inches mm long and had a star nut pounded down into its bore. Wheels Manufacturing , which is conveniently located near us, now makes us a five-inch-long mm aluminum sleeve insert with integrated thread inside for the top cap bolt. We glue it in with JB Weld epoxy. We first sand inside the steerer, blow it out with compressed air, and wipe it clean inside with a clean rag soaked in rubbing alcohol.
After epoxying it in, we leave it sit for 24 hours before adjusting the headset and tightening the stem clamp. We sell that insert separately. Who has to do this?! When do you do this?! These are the main questions that make people read an article. Apparently knowledge about handlebar height is prerequisite for the procedures in this article. Yet there is nothing to help you with that, nor a link to some info. If there is a tech on that, I couldnt find it.
The fit of your bike is such a personal thing, depending on riding style, and your own preferences and ability.
I understand that they didn't have enough space in this article to go deeply into that subject. Perhaps it is something best worked out between you local bike shop if you are having determining the stem height for your bike. Now people are going to come into the shop with too short of steer tubes and ask us if we can fix them Your bike will be ready to collect in about 3 months, we'll give you a call when it's ready. Good day sir. If you have an expensive fork that is used on a new frame you may be shit outa luck with a short steerer.
I always use a top and bottom spacer. I don't think that cutting the steerer tube of a perfect length is that crucial, adding one or two spacers is not harmful and I like to have a margin for error.
The crucial think is not to cut it too short Good Tech Tuesday. There have been many posts in the mechanics forum that can be addressed by this. I would add that, as much as the perfect length looks pro, if you are wanting to sell your fork or complete bike later, keep the steerer tube longer so it fits more people and more bikes.
WAKIdesigns Feb 7, at Yea I was wondering about it Especially since these days you can buy any spacers in any size and any colour. RobbyBriers Feb 7, at Not even for just resale purposes, if you want to swap the fork onto a different bike it can be useful to leave a little extra.
I leave mine long enough to fit the longest headtube frame I have. Some of my bikes end up with one or two 10mm spacers on top, but I have the option of moving parts around without worrying about steerer length. That would be pretty stupid to leave that much. I would do 5mm maximum. Something else to consider is brake lever positioning. If you have them pointing down to any degree it's worth making sure they clear the top tube when the bars spin just in case you bin it in style and the bars get spun around with force.
This usually goes hand in hand with a slightly longer steerer tube length and higher stem position courtesy of spacers. Which is good for creaky old backs like mine and fork resale value. Draggon Feb 7, at Shouldn't recommendations for what to use to actually cut the steer tube be included in here? The best way, getting it straight, filing off burrs and marking the cut line. I don't know It seems that syphilis might have come from the Americas Hendry Feb 7, at But I got it in London They started off with a campag headset upside down and built a stem steerer unit.
Concentration camps as well Good job England. Good job. Bouncerbeater Feb 7, at Apart from correct grammar apparently. Where did I say I don't like England? I just don't like stupid statements. Or Alex Salmond. I think back in the day pace had the most versatile range of steerers of any manufacturer.
Still pretty sure tioga introduced the ahead set. Tioga had a licensed version though, called the Alchemy series. The Aheadset patent btw, expired in Sept of , so now any headset maker can produce threadless headsets with the much better split-collar bearing preload method if they'd get off their lazy arses and do so coughkingcough.
Actually, the Scot's have given much more to the world than the English! I'm not anti English or anti anybody - just proud of my country. Bring on Scottish Independance. I stand corrected at should at least google before I comment. Need I go on? Not anything that important from the English really. O yeah! We invented retractable beer carton holders and table hockey and tracer shells EH!! There is a limit; going too low can make the bike difficult to control.
A lower handlebar can also negatively affect handling in steep terrain. On the road, elite riders normally have a significant drop, where their bars sit below the saddle. This is typically done to provide a more aerodynamic position. Recreational riders are usually best served by a handlebar that is in line with the saddle or above it.
This usually gives a very comfortable position. The guide below applies to modern threadless style stems and headsets. Generally, most bikes have 20 to 30mm of headset spacers that can be moved freely above or below the stem. All bolts in the stem are standard-threaded i.
This is a good time to add a little fresh grease to the top cap bolt, which can easily become seized in place. This is what the top cap and bolt look like when undone. These pieces thread into an item called a star nut. On a carbon bike, an expanding wedge called a bung is usually used. You do not need to remove either of these.
Slide the stem back onto the steerer tube and replace the spacers you just removed into position above the stem. Now replace that top cap and bolt, and tighten until you feel some resistance. This top cap bolt is used to pre-load the headset bearings. Next, align the stem with the front wheel, so the bar is at a right angle with the wheel. This may take some patience — it helps to straddle yourself over the top tube of the bike.
This is often around 5 to 8Nm. An easy trick to get this right is to hold the front brake and put one hand on the headset, then rock the bars gently back and forth. Feel for the steerer rocking back and forth inside the head tube of the bike. If you feel this, loosen the stem clamp bolts and tighten the top cap bolt another quarter-turn, then re-torque the stem clamp bolts.
Repeat until all signs of bearing movement have disappeared and the handlebars still turn smoothly.
0コメント